The following is about pattern management, layout and bed management, material laying management, sample cutting management, inspection, and marking management in the process of garment production.
- Model management
(1) Collection template
According to the batch number, name, style, size, etc. of the production notice, the receiver shall use the sample.
When collecting samples, check the number of samples.
The sample should be signed and returned as soon as possible after the production task is completed.
(2) Sample keeping
The regulations of keeping samples in the storeroom: samples of various types of clothing manufacurer should be classified, classified, and stored in a fixed position;
Set up the form card registration, and record the sample number, product name, specification, and storage location;
The template should be placed on the shelf, small pieces on the top, and large pieces on the bottom. It should be placed flat to prevent deformation. When hanging and storing, the film template should be used, and the soft paper sample should not be folded; The sample plate should be placed in a ventilated and dry place to avoid moisture, light, and insects;
To do a good job in the sample collection and return registration procedures, and pay attention to check the sample number, quantity, and whether there is a defect.
- Discharge and separate bed management
According to the production task and production conditions, the process plan of reasonably making the number of cutting beds, laying layers, and nesting pieces for a certain production task is called dividing beds.
A reasonable layout is an important way to save materials, which can be divided into manual layout and computer automatic layout.
The layout process requires the verticality of warp and weft; The correctness of fabric direction; The symmetry of the cut piece; The width of fabric and layout can’t be consistent. According to the width of the pinhole on the edge of the cloth, 1 ~ 3cm should be left on both sides.
The layout method is uniform, which is easy to estimate the material consumption and avoid color difference; Mixed code nesting is suitable for multi specification batch production; It is suitable for batch production of suits or series of garments.
The principle of layout is big first and then small; Precision nesting, make full use of the shape and angle of the template, reduce the gap; The shorter the warp, the better.
(2) Split bed
According to the production equipment conditions, the length of the cutting bed determines the discharge length, and the length of the cutting bed is determined by the cutting bed equipment.
The more production, the more times of repeated cutting.
The thickness of the fabric directly affects the number of layers. Woolen cloth is placed in uniform cloth with 30 ~ 70 layers, medium thickness cloth with 70 ~ 100 layers, medium-length fiber with 120 ~ 140 layers, cotton cloth with 180 ~ 220 layers, polyester-cotton with 240 ~ 300 layers, chemical fiber with 150 ~ 180 layers, High-grade fabrics should have fewer layers. The more layers of cutting, the higher the thickness of paving material or the smoother the fabric, the greater the error of upper and lower layers when cutting. Therefore, we can not only pursue the number of layers of bedding and ignore the quality.
- Paving management
Laying is to lay the cloth layer by layer on the cutting bed according to the length and number of layers determined by the cutting process plan.
(1) Technological requirements of paving materials
Three in one, three in one, three in one, three in one, three in one, three in one, three in one, three in one, three in one.
The force should be even, and the material laying is a combination work of two or more people. When pulling cloth, the hands should be even, and the force should be even. These will affect the size of the finished product.
The laying of different materials on some special fabrics, such as strip to the grid, reverse wool, etc.
(2) Method of laying
In the one-way paving method, each layer of cloth must be cut, then pulled up, and then the next layer of cloth is paved from the beginning. The front of each layer of fabric is facing down, and the direction of each layer is consistent, which is suitable for all kinds of fabrics. Another method is to cut off each layer of cloth after laying, then pull the cloth face up in turn, and then lay the next layer of cloth from the beginning. This kind of paving method forms face-to-face, and each layer has the same direction.
In the two-way paving method, the fabric is folded back and forth according to the length of the paving material, and each layer is not necessarily cut, so that each layer is face-to-face, but the direction is not consistent, which is suitable for thinner or non-directional fabrics.
The folding laying method means that the width of the cloth door is wide, and there is still room in the weft direction of the layout. It can fold the door width of the fabric in half and lay the material with the front-facing inward. It is suitable for small batch production and products made of lattice and strip materials. It is also suitable for materials with skew weft or chromatic aberration.
(3) Defect elimination method
If the material breaking method can’t avoid the big defects or the cloth with many stains, cut it off for other purposes.
Mark the parts with fewer defects in the replacement method. After cutting, use the surplus material to make up the cutting and replace the defects.
If there are complex defects in the first layer of cloth in the upside-down method, you can turn around for cutting, but each cloth can only be upside down once.
- Management of drawing and cutting
(1) Fabric scribing
The pattern is divided into cloth patterns, paper pattern, and leaky pattern board pattern. It is suitable for thick material with dark color and small batch production. The efficiency of pattern drawing is high, but the lines are not clear enough.
The back piece and sleeve piece of the shirt are allowed to deviate 0.6cm, and the rest pieces are not allowed to deviate. For fabrics with obvious stripes, the grain direction is not allowed to deviate. For hidden stripes, the grain direction is allowed to deviate less than 0.3cm. For plain and printed fabrics, the grain direction is allowed to deviate more.
Drawing sample requires clear lines, accurate lines, and good tools.
Draw the pattern and straighten the strip for the strip and lattice fabric. The front and back should be symmetrical. The back middle seam should be V-shaped. The front and back swing seams should be herringbone. The pocket should be aligned with the body. Yes. It is necessary to check the horizontal and vertical direction. The method of bar and lattice. First, the front piece should be symmetrical. The front piece should be arranged symmetrically. The back piece should be arranged according to the front armhole side. Then, the large sleeve should be arranged according to the front armhole side. Then, the small sleeve should be arranged according to the large sleeve. The back collar should be arranged according to the back seam. The corresponding pocket position of the front body of the pocket should be determined.
Cutting mode: cutter cutting direct cutting machine; Die stamping; Computerized tailoring.
Cutting process requirements:
First horizontal then straight, cut the cloth section horizontally, and push it from the outside to the inside when decomposing the small section of cloth. ② The operation should be stable. Hold the cloth with the left hand and keep the cutter vertical with the right hand.
The cutter should be sharp, otherwise, it will affect the accuracy of cutting.
Keep your hands steady when turning corners.
Master the temperature and reduce the cutting speed of the cutting machine when cutting thermoplastic cloth. Or apply a layer of silicone lubricant to reduce the thickness of the material.
- Film inspection and printing management
(1) Examination film
Check the shape and specification of the cut piece with the template.
Compare the top and bottom cutting pieces in the same bed to check whether the upper and lower cutting pieces are consistent.
The symmetrical parts are folded in half to check whether the two sides of the cut piece are symmetrical.
Check the cutting layer by layer to see if there are any defects.
The printing method is to mark the part with no obvious number on the reverse side of the cut piece.
Paste the numbered label on a certain part of the cut piece, and remove the label after sewing.
The marking method uses the marking powder to mark the backside of the cut piece.
No matter which method of marking, the color of the mark should not be too dark or too light. It should be able to see clearly, but it should not leave an ink mark.
- Marking and binding management
To identify, usually the fabric number, color, product number, size, the number of pieces written on the label. The mark is usually made of white cloth with a length of about 21cm × 15cm.
The cut pieces are classified, and the main and auxiliary parts needed for sewing each part of the garment are matched according to the order of marking.
Different pieces of each part of the same garment must be cut from the same layer of cloth;
There can only be one size and one color on each piece of clothing;
The quantity of strapping depends on the thickness of the cloth, which is generally appropriate;
If the cloth is too tight, the cloth will wrinkle and if it is too loose, the cloth will be missed;
After matching a bundle of clothes pieces with the corresponding pieces of other bundles correctly, fasten the mark.